Satisfying soups

Soups are a cornerstone of Turkish country cooking. They are a traditional starter, popular as a meal in themselves, and also often served at breakfast as a hearty way to start the day. Emel Yuksel dishes out four of the comforting soups she has enjoyed since childhood Whether it’s thick or thin, based on boiled meat and bones or on seafood, or completely vegetarian, soup is such a universal dish that it is difficult to identify precisely what it is that makes a particular soup Turkish. Many soups are made entirely (or almost entirely) from vegetables and pulses. This reflects the variety, quality and quantity of the fresh local produce grown in Turkey. In Turkey as elsewhere, soups have evolved over the centuries to match changing tastes and ways of life: the chances are that the flavours of modern soups are much enhanced by the greater choice of ingredients available today. Flour has become less popular as a thickening agent, but egg yolk mixed with lemon juice or yogurt is still a favourite. Stirring in a little butter at the last minute also makes a delicious finishing touch. It is often flavoured with dried mint or paprika. And one thing has always been true: to enjoy your soup in true Turkish style, you must have it with a chunk of good fresh bread. continue