All of the really fascinating and exciting wine-producing countries in Europe are notable for their wealth of indigenous or homegrown grape varieties. One thinks of Germany’s noble Riesling, Portugal’s sturdy Touriga Nacional, silky Pinot Noir and spicy Syrah from France, supple Tempranillo in Spain, Austrian Gruner Veltliner and the bold Nebbiolo that produces Italy’s great Barolos, plus much else besides.
These are varieties with long pedigrees, evident way before the vogue for Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon swept the globe, that somehow capture the spirit of each country. In Anatolia, historical cradle of winemaking, the story is much the same.
Except – amazingly – none of these Turkish varieties is listed in either my copy of the Jancis Robinson edited wine bible, the Oxford Companion to Wine, or Oz Clark’s Pocket Wine Book. It’s an outrageous oversight and one that should be remedied.
Modern Turkey has not only continued to cultivate its old established varieties alongside the newer foreign interlopers, but it also continues to celebrate its vineyard heritage through its most popular styles of wine. It’s a vivid testimony to the individuality and character of the local grape varieties and also their compatibility with both Ottoman-style and modern Turkish cuisine. And, as the latest winemaking techniques continue to filter through to the wineries and vineyards, these varieties are ever more likely to hold their head up on the international stage.
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