A nose ahead of the rest

It's a long way from Adana in southern Turkey to the dining room of The Fat Duck in Bray, Berkshire. But İsa Bal, head sommelier at the UK's world-famous, most applauded restaurant characteristically makes very little fuss about what he has achieved. A gently spoken man, he is the opposite of the cliché, pushy wine waiter who makes choosing a wine an intimidating experience and sneers or lifts a contemptuous eyebrow if you point to one of the less expensive items on the list.

What early childhood tastes does he remember? His mother cooked some dishes really well, others less so, but then every boy thinks his mother is a great cook. İsa recalls the taste of pomegranate juice. This and other memories came back to him in the Rhône Valley while he was having dinner one evening. “The aroma of the wine took me straight back to my childhood. Côte Rôtie La Landonne 79, the aromas, elements, berries, took me right back. The sense of smell is very close to our memory bank.”